Compa Y Su Casa2

Arregle o instale lo que sea en su casa, aprenda y monte un taller
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Compa y su Casa 1. Terminologia 2. Kit Basico 3. Carpinteria a. Reparacion de Sillas y Mesas b. Hacer una Cama o Cunita c. Gabinetes d. Nuevos estantes o carretilla de cocina e. Construir un closet de madera f. Hacer una mesa de madera g. Un Armario de Estantes 4. Plomeria a. Reparar tuberias tapadas o danadas b. Reemplazar grifos c. Destapando Lavamanos o Lavaplatos d. Conectando tuberias de Lavamanos o Lavaplatos e. Instalando un Inodoro 5. Electrico a. Instalar Abanicos b. Reemplazar Switches o Tomacorrientes c. Instalar Lamparas 6. Décor Interior a. Colgar cuadros y cortineros b. Repintar paredes internas c. Instalar Llavines d. Montar una repisa con soportes e. Instalando ceramica f. Instalando una puerta interna g. Crear divisiones h. Instalar Closet de Alambre i. Instalar un Vanity 7. Exterior a. Instalar un zip-line b. Cerco de Madera #1 c. Cerca de Madera #2 d. Ensamblar un Swing e. Construyendo un Deck f. Un Deck elevado g. Pintar paredes exteriores 8. Ahorros de Agua y Energia 9. Montar un taller Terminologia   Medidas o Pulgadas vs Milimetros Carpinteria o Madera lijada y pulida o Martillo o Serrucho o Tornillo Goloso o Cola o Cincel o Plomeria o Tubo PVC vs Galvanizado o Machos vs Hembras o Agua caliente y fria o Pegamento y lijas PVC o Segeta o Llaves de tubo o Teflon o Tomas y medidores de agua Electrico o Tape electrico o Medidor voltimetro o Panel de breakers o Tenazas Décor Interior o Nivel o Taladro y brocas o Exterior o Bases o zapatas vs losas     KIT BASICO *RECOMENDADO* Toda casa de habitacion, ademas de tener un extinguidor y un botiquin, deberia contar con un Kit Basico de herramientas y accesorios para atender reparaciones de emergencia y evitar gastos excesivos a los cuales son sujeto las emergencias: A. Martillo D. Tape Electrico B. Segeta E. Destornillador plano (y/o estrella “phillips”) H. Codo ½” agua fria K. Adaptador Hembra ½” fria N. Llave de Tubo Q. Protector de Ojos, Oidos y Boca C. Teflon F. Tenazas G. Pegamento PVC J. Adaptador Macho ½” fria M. Medidor de Corriente P. Indicacion de Breakers I. Camisa ½” agua fria L. Trozos de 1” de PVC ½” fria O. Ubicacion de Tomas R. Metro CARPINTERIA Reparacion de Sillas y Mesas (Uso de Serrucho y Lijas de Madera) Reparar una mesa o una silla agrega un toque de “Nuevo” a su hogar con algunas tecnicas sencillas y rapidas. Crealo o no, debajo de su mueble viejo y despintado esta atrapado uno nuevo que esta gritando por salir. Con un par de tips y su sala o comedor puede lucir como nueva sin gastar una fortuna en comprar muebles nuevos. Materiales Serrucho Lija de Madera Barniz Brocha de 3” Paso 1: Lije las patas y superficies (ubicando una bolsa plastica o periodico debajo) Paso 2: Lije las patas para asegurar que esta nivelado (use un nivel) Paso 2: Agregue una capa de barniz al mueble Hacer una Cama o Cunita (Martillo, Clavos y Cola, Tornillos y Tuercas) Hacer una cama o cunita es mas un proyecto de taller pero no hay trabajo mas satisfactorio que hacer una camita o cunita para un bebe que esta en camino. Ya conocemos los precios de las cunas en el mercado asi que es importante tomar en cuenta lo que nos podria costar realmente no solo en materiales sino en satisfaccion propia. Materiales Soportes de abajo Patas Railings Espaciadores Fondo Retoque de Gabinetes (pdf, visagras y nuevos) Start by removing all the cabinet doors and drawers: They only make the unit heavier and easier to damage. Get a good 4-foot level and use it constantly. Start with the wall cabinets - they're much easier to hang before the base cabinets are in place. Begin in a corner - about the only way to make sure the cabinet is properly positioned. Once the wall cabinets are up, install the base cabinets. Unlike the wall cabinets, which you installed one at a time, you'll put all of the base cabinets in place and double-check everything before screwing anything to the wall. What You'll Need Skill Scale Medium Time Required Varies Tools 4-foot level Stud finder Tape measure Clamps Utility knife Hammer Electric drill with drill and screwdriver bits, saber saw, hole saw, nail set Materials 2×4, 1×4 ledger Shims Cabinets 11⁄4-inch drywall screws, 21⁄2-inch drywall screws, trim molding, 4d finishing nails Step One Install the upper cabinets first. It is easier to install them before the base cabinets are in place. Temporarily drive a couple of long screws into the studs along the line marking the bottom of the upper cabinets to help support them while you're installing. Some installers screw a board, called a ledger, along the entire length of the wall to hold the cabinets. The ledger works as long as the wall is flat and plumb. If it's not, you'll need to shim behind the cabinets to align them, and the ledger would get in the way. Step Two Start installation with corner wall cabinet. Place the cabinet on the screws or ledger. If the cabinet isn't plumb, slip shims between the cabinet and wall at the stud lines and adjust as necessary. Drill and countersink two holes in each of the mounting rails inside the cabinet and drive 21⁄2-inch drywall screws through the holes. Step Three With a helper, rest the neighboring cabinet on the screw or ledger and line up the front with the cabinet you just installed. Clamp the two cabinets together. Check for level and plumb, and shim between the wall and cabinet as necessary. Step Four On frameless cabinets, such as the ones shown here, drill the holes for connectors. Screw the cabinets together. On framed cabinets, drill holes for 11⁄4-inch drywall screws in the recesses for the hinges to hide them. Step Five Drill and countersink two pilot holes through each of the mounting rails, centering, the holes over the studs. (On some wall cabinets, the mounting rails are inside the cabinet. On others, they are hidden by the back.) Drive 21⁄2-inch drywall screws through the holes and into the studs. Step Six Hang the rest of the cabinets the way you hung the first ones, checking for level and plumb as you go. Once all the wall cabinets are in place, remove the ledger screws you installed in Step 5. Trim any visible shims flush with the cabinet using a utility knife. Step Seven If you have a slight gap between the back of the last cabinet and the wall, cover it with strip of molding. Cut a piece as long as the cabinet; stain and finish it to match. Nail it in place with a brad gun, and fill the holes with a putty made by the cabinet manufacturer to match the cabinet finish. Step Eight If you have a gap between the side of the cabinet and an end wall or appliance, cut a filler strip to close it. The cabinet distributor usually sells these strips. Scribe the strip with a compass and cut along the line with a saber saw. Slip the strip in place and attach it with drywall screws. Step Nine A valance is a decorative piece that connects two wall cabinets above a sink. Have someone help you hold the valance in position; drill and countersink pilot holes into the side of the cabinets on each side, and attach the valance with drywall screws. Reemplazando Visagras Replacing hinges on your cabinet doors is easy enough, but plan to take your time – you'll need to remove each door to work on it. Place a soft cloth on a nearby countertop to use as a work surface, and take care not to drop any tools on your countertops. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required You can replace all the hardware on an 8-foot section of wall in approximately 3 hours. Tools Screwdrivers Drill with bits Combination square Materials Replacement hardware Step One Use a screwdriver or power screwdriver to remove the old doors, hinges, catches and other hardware. Step Two Set a combination square at the 2-inch mark, and position the new hinges an equal distance from the top and bottom of the door. Use a finish nail or an awl to mark the screw locations. Step Three Drill pilot holes, and attach the hinges with screws. Take care not to drill all the way through the cabinets! Mount the new knobs, handles and catches. A power screwdriver will speed up this job, but be careful not to strip the threads or break a screw. Step Four Attach the cabinet doors to the frames. Make sure the doors overlap the openings by an equal amount on all sides. Allow a 1/8-inch gap between doors that cover a single opening. Nuevos Armario de Estantes o Carretilla de Cocina (Similar a construccion de Gabinete en pared o con llantas en la cocina) Why take the time to build your own utility shelves when there are so many good offthe-shelf solutions to choose from? Well, for one thing, you can build this custom unit to fit the exact space you have available. And because you'll anchor it to the ceiling joists and the floor, it'll probably be a lot sturdier under a heavy load than most freestanding shelves. Finally, no manufactured shelving we've seen gives you the spacing flexibility and easy reconfiguration of this unit. An added plus: if you like, you can dress it up with the simple addition of side panels and stock trim molding on the face frame. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required This unit will go together in a single afternoon. Tools Tape measure Plumb bob Framing square Level Power screwdriver Drill Circular saw Bar clamps C-clamps Handscrew clamps Router Materials 2x4 material 3/4-inch plywood Wood shims Wood screws Wood glue Step One Mark the locations of the top plates on the ceiling. One plate should be flush against the wall, and the other should be parallel to it with its front edge 24 inches from the wall. Cut the 2x4 top plates to the full length of the utility shelves, then attach them to the ceiling joists using 3-inch screws. Step Two Using a plumb bob as a guide, mark points directly beneath the outside corners of the top plates to find the outer sole-plate locations. Mark the sole-plate locations by drawing lines perpendicular to the wall, connecting each pair of points. Step Three Cut outer 2x4 sole plates, and position them perpendicular to the wall, just inside your outlines. Shim the plates to level them, if necessary, then attach them to the floor with a stud gun or screws. Attach a center sole plate midway between the outer sole plates. Step Four Prepare the shelf risers by cutting 7/8inch-wide, 3/4-inch-deep dado grooves with a router. Cut dadoes every 4 inches along the inside face of each 2x4 riser with the top and bottom dadoes about 12 inches from the ends. Gang-cut the risers by laying them flat, clamping them together, and attaching a straightedge guide to align your dado cuts. For each cut, make several passes with the router, gradually extending the bit depth until the dadoes are 3/4 inch deep. Step Five Using a circular saw and a straightedge guide, trim the shelf risers to a uniform length before unclamping them. Step Six Build two center shelf supports by positioning pairs of shelf risers back-toback and joining them with wood glue and 2 1/2-inch screws. Step Seven Build four end shelf supports by positioning the back of a dadoed shelf riser against a 2x4 of the same length and joining them with glue and 2 1/2-inch screws. Step Eight Position an end shelf support at each corner of the shelving unit between the top and sole plates. Attach the supports by driving 3-inch screws at an angle into the top plates and sole plates. Step Nine Position a center shelf support (one with both faces dadoed) at each end of the center sole plate, then anchor the shelf supports to the sole plate using 3-inch screws driven at an angle. Use a framing square to align the center shelf supports perpendicular to the top plates, screw them to the top plates. Step Ten Measure the distance between the facing dado grooves, subtract 1/4 inch, and cut plywood shelves to fit. Slide the shelves into the grooves. Construir un Closet de Madera (Variante de Gabinetes o Carretilla de Madera) You've cleared out the space, written down all your measurements, and now you're ready to go out and buy that long-overdue closet-organizing system. OK, but prepare yourself for some sticker shock. Depending on the off-the-shelf system you choose, a single closet's worth can end up costing hundreds of dollars. Our easy-to-build organizer will set you back just the cost of a single sheet of plywood (plus a couple of clothes poles and some 1x3 lumber). And guess what – it will function just the same as the high-priced spread. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required You can build and install our 5-foot-wide closet organizer in a day or less. Tools Stud finder Hand saw Hammer Tape measure Framing square Circular saw Screwdriver Materials Finish nails (6d and 8d) 1x3 lumber 4x8 sheet of 3/4-inch plywood 6-foot clothes pole Clothes-pole brackets Paint or wood stain Step One Measure the back and side walls to determine the length of the shelf supports. Be sure to deduct 1 1/2 inches from the length of the back-wall shelfsupport measurement (the 3/4-inch thickness of each end support). Step Two Cut 1x3 shelf supports to fit the back and side walls of the closet. Attach the supports for the top shelf to the walls with their top edges 84 inches above the floor using 8d finish nails driven into the wall studs. Step Three Cut the supports for the bottom shelf, and attach them to the wall with their top edges 76 inches above the floor, again using 8d finish nails driven directly into the wall studs. Step Four Cut the two long 11 7/8-inch-wide shelves from 3/4-inch plywood. Then cut them to length to fit the width of your closet. Step Five Measure and cut the two 11 7/8x76-inch side pieces for the central shelf unit from 3/4-inch plywood. Step Six Measure and cut the six 11 7/8-inch-square shelves for the central unit from 3/4-inch plywood. Step Seven Assemble the central shelf unit using 6d finish nails. Space the shelves evenly or according to the height of the items you plan to store. Leave the top and bottom of the unit open. Step Eight Position the central shelf unit in the middle of the closet. Step Nine Mark notches on the sides of the central shelf unit to fit around the lower shelf's back support, and cut them out with a hand saw. Step Ten Lay one of the long shelves on the lower shelf supports and on top of the central shelf unit. Attach the shelf with 6d finish nails. Hacer una Mesa de Madera (Tiene variantes igual que las gabinetes y closets; por ejemplo una mesita interior) Just try to get through a summer of barbecues without at least one picnic table. Now, here's a building project that is guaranteed to give you years and years of use – if you do it right. Construction of this picnic table is straightforward, but you'll need to take the time to make the cuts accurately – especially the angled cuts for the table legs and braces. Remember the old carpenter's rule: Measure twice, cut once. What You'll Need Skill Scale Medium Time Requred Experienced: 4 hrs Handy: 5 hrs; Novice: 6 hrs Tools Tape Measure Ratchet and socket wrench Framing Square Combination Square C-clamps Bar Clamps Circular Saw Saber Saw 3/8-inch drill and bits Screwdriver Paintbrush Safety goggles Materials 2x4s 2x6s 2x8s 3/8x3 inch carriage bolts No. 8 2-1/2, 3 and 4 inch deck screw Sandpaper To build this picnic table, cut and assemble the table slats and supports, then screw on the legs. Braces provide lateral support, while supports screwed to the legs hold the bench slats in place. Cutting List 4 Table slats 1-1/2"D x 7-1/4"W x 72"L 4 Bench slats 1/1/2" x 5-1/2" x 68" 4 Table legs 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 40-1/2" 1 Center table support 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 28-3/4" 2 End table supports 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 28-3/4" 2 Bench supports 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 61" 2 Braces 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 30-3/4" 2 Bench cleats 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 10" Step One Assembling the Top Cut the 2x8 table slats to length with a circular saw. You'll cut the curved edge of the slats later. Then cut the three table supports. Cut a 60-degree angle on each end of the two end table supports and a 60-degree bevel on the end of the center table support, as shown in picnic table image above. Step Two Clamp the table slats together, separated by spacers. Place the table supports on the slats: the two end ones on edge 7 inches from the end, and the middle one flat and centered. Drill holes with a combination countersink bit, drilling deep enough to set the screw heads below the surface. Step Three Drive screws in the two outermost slats only, so that the support can be moved later in the construction, if necessary. Screw the two end table supports to the slats with No. 8 4-inch deck screws. Attach the center table support to the slats with No. 8 21/2-inch deck screws. Step Four Adding the Legs & Supports Cut the table legs about an inch longer than needed. Draw a 60-degree cutting angle at each end of the legs, positioned to give you the proper length. Cut the legs at the marks with a circular saw. Step Five Mark a point 11/2 inches from the outside edge of the bottom of each leg. Butt a combination square against the end and draw a line from the point to the outside edge. Cut off the corner. This trims the leg so it is less likely to trip someone once the table is assembled. Step Six Clamp the legs to the outside faces of the end table supports. Butt together their inside edges at the gap between the center slats. Step Seven The legs are attached with two 3-inch carriage bolts. Counterbore for a washer and nut and drill clearance holes the same diameter as the bolt shanks. Slide each bolt into its hole, add a washer, and tighten the nut. Step Eight Mark the position of the bench supports on the legs by laying one arm of a framing square on the tabletop. Measure up 131/2 inches on the other arm. Then hold a straightedge across the square and mark the inside face of the legs. Step Nine Miter-cut the end of the bench supports to 60-degree angles. Clamp the bench supports to the inside of the legs, align them with the mark on each leg, and center them across the table's width. Drill four holes on the outside face of each leg and fasten the bench supports with 3-inch carriage bolts. Step Ten Mark parallel 60-degree angles on each end of the 2x4 braces. Cut the braces with a circular saw. Step Eleven Lay out a right-angled notch at one end of each brace to fit the center table support. Measure 21/4 inches on the edge of the brace that has just been cut and mark. Measure 13/4 inches deep from that mark and make the notch lines with a combination square. Cut the notch with a saber saw. Step Twelve Position each brace and mark the part that sticks out beyond the lower edge of the bench supports to trim it off. Test-fit the braces. If they don't fit, adjust the notch with sandpaper or a chisel. In some cases, you may have to move the leg assembly. Drill pilot holes at each end for No. 8 3inch deck screws. Then drive in the screws. Step Thirteen Attaching the Bench Slats Cut the bench slats to length and put them in pairs upside down on a flat work surface. Cut the two bench cleats to size, making a 60-degree bevel at each end. Step Fourteen Separate each pair of bench slats with 1/4inch spacers and clamp each assembly together. Place the bench cleats at the center of the bench slats. Drill holes with a combination countersink bit and drive in No. 8 21/2-inch deck screws. Step Fifteen Clamp the benches to the bench supports. Drill holes with a combination countersink bit for 4-inch deck screws and screw the bench supports to the benches. Step Sixteen Applying the Final Touches Build a jig to draw a curved edge on each end of the table top. Begin by boring a hole for a pencil into a 6-foot 1x2. Then clamp a wood strip across the tabletop 10 inches from one end. Nail the 1x2 to the strip so it pivots, then scribe an arc. Repeat to mark the other end. Step Seventeen Cut the curved edges of the tabletop with a saber saw. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to make a similar curve at each end of the benches. Step Eighteen Sand all rough edges, especially on the top of the benches and table. Apply a waterproof finish. PLOMERIA Reparar tuberias tapadas o danadas (Uso segeta, lija y pega de PVC y conexion PVC Galvanizado) Una situacion encontrada muy a menudo es que un nino o animal rompe una tuberia y comienza a gotear o salen los chorros de agua. Eso es un costo para usted de muchas formas, ya sea economico si esta “depues de su medidor” o incluso estetico y hasta podria traer consecuencias de salud ya que el enpozamiento de agua trae zancudos con dengue y bacterias o virus que pueden traer otras enfermedades a su familia directa o indirectamente. Lo mas frustrante es tener que llamar a alguien que lo repare y nos cobre Lps 2,000 cuando nosotros lo pudimos haber solventado con Lps 100! Materiales Segeta Teflon Pega PVC Trozos de PVC ½” Valvula ½” Adaptadores Machos y Hembras Lija 120 Instalando una Llave Installing a new faucet is a simple project and a great way to upgrade the look of your kitchen or bathroom. You'll need to spend some time under the sink making connections and tightening nuts, so it's a good idea to clear out any items stored there so you can work easier. As you tighten nuts to secure the faucet, be sure to pop back up top for a quick look to make sure the faucet body is nice and square to the edge of the sink. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required You can install a new faucet in less than one hour. Tools Adjustable wrenches Basin wrench Slip joint pliers Materials Silicone caulk or plumber's Step One Apply a 1/4 inch bead of plumber's putty (or silicone caulk, if your sink is made of cultured marble) around the base of the faucet. Insert the faucet tailpieces into the sink openings. Position the faucet so that the base is parallel to the back of the sink, then press the faucet down to make sure the putty forms a good seal. Step Two From underneath the sink, screw the metal friction washers and the mounting nuts onto the tailpieces, then tighten them with a basin wrench or slip joint pliers. Wipe away any excess putty around the base of the faucet. Step Three Connect the supply lines to the faucet tailpieces. Tighten the coupling nuts with a basin wrench or with a pair of slip joint pliers. Step Four Attach the supply lines to the shutoff valves. Hand-tighten the nuts, then give them an extra quarter-turn with an adjustable wrench. To prevent damage to the tubes, it's a good idea to hold the valve with another wrench while you tighten them. Turn water on. Destapando un Lavamos o Lavaplatos Sinks get clogged and backed up when soap, hair and grease build up and clog the trap or the drain line. When that happens, don't reach for the drain cleaner. Instead, try to clear the drain by cleaning gunk off the sink stopper or plunging the sink. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required Clearing a sink drain usually takes less than half an hour. Tools Pliers Plunger Materials Rag Step One Take the stopper out of the sink. Some pop-up stoppers lift out directly; others turn counterclockwise. Some older stoppers have a pivot rod that has to be removed. Under the sink, you'll see a locking nut where the rod enters the drain pipe. Remove the nut, and pull the rod out. Step Two Stuff a wet rag in the sink overflow opening. This prevents air from escaping as you work with the plunger. Place the plunger cup over the drain opening, and run enough water to cover the rubber cup. Move the plunger up and down rapidly to clear the clog. Conectando Tuberia debajo de Lavamos/Lavaplatos Some new faucets come with copper supply tubes pre-attached to the body of the faucet. They are designed so that you connect the tubes directly to the shutoff valves underneath your sink. With these kinds of faucets, the pre-attached tubes and a centermounted, threaded tailpiece are all intended to fit down through the central hole of your sink. Supplemental mounting bolts are provided at the ends of the faucet body to hold the edges of the faucet tight to the sink. If the pre-attached tubing is the correct length, you're in luck. If not, you'll have to buy extensions to make the connections. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required This job takes about one hour. If you have to put extensions on the supply tubes, add half an hour. Tools Basin wrench Water-pump pliers Adjustable wrenches Step One Attach the faucet to the sink by placing a rubber gasket, retainer ring and locknut onto the threaded tailpiece. Tighten the locknut with a basin wrench or a pair of water-pump pliers. Step Two Some center-mounted faucets have a decorative cover plate. Secure the cover plate from below with washers and locknuts screwed onto the cover plate bolts. Step Three Connect the pre-attached supply tubing to the shutoff valves with compression fittings. The red-coded tube should be attached to the hot-water supply pipe and the blue-coded one to the cold-water pipe. Instalando un Inodoro You'll install a new toilet in two steps - first the bowl, then the tank. The most difficult part of the installation will be putting the bowl in place. It's heavy, and you'll have to place it so the floor bolts are directly lined up with the holes in the toilet base. Once that part is done, the toughest part of the installation is complete. When working with heavy porcelain items such as toilets, avoid banging them into anything. Porcelain is tough - up to a point. If it cracks, it can't be used. What You'll Need Skill Scale Medium Time Required You can install a toilet in about two hours. Tools Ratchet wrench and sockets Adjustable wrenches Screwdriver Materials Step One Turn the new toilet bowl upside-down, and put a new wax ring and sleeve over the drain horn. Press it down firmly to seat the ring. If the ring has a paper cover, remove it. Step Two Make sure the toilet flange is clean and the floor bolts point straight up. If you stuffed a rag in the drain hole to plug sewer gases, take it out. Then carefully position the toilet over the flange, and fit the holes in the toilet base directly over the floor bolts. Step Three Press down on the toilet bowl to compress the wax ring, making a tight seal. Attach the washers and the nuts to the floor bolts, and tighten them with an adjustable wrench. (Note: Don't over-tighten; you could crack the base!) Attach the trim caps. Step Four You're halfway there! Now for the tank. On some tanks, you'll have to install the handle ballcock, and flush valve. Then turn the tank upside down and, set the big spud washer over the tailpiece of the flush valve. Step Five Turn the tank back over and position it on the toilet bowl, centering the spud washer over the water inlet opening near the back edge of the bowl. Step Six There are two or three holes in the bottom of the tank that you need to line up with two or three, holes on the top of the bowl. Shift the tank gently until your mission is accomplished; then put a rubber washer on each of the tank bolts, and set the bolts through the matching holes with the bolt heads on the inside of the tank. Step Seven From underneath the bowl, attach the washers and the nuts to these bolts. You'll want to tighten them with a ratchet wrench or basin wrench until snug, but remember, don't over-tighten! Step Seven From underneath the bowl, attach the washers and the nuts to these bolts. You'll want to tighten them with a ratchet wrench or basin wrench until snug, but remember, don't over-tighten! Step Nine Your last task is to mount the toilet seat. Set the seat bolts into the toilet's mounting holes, screw the mounting nuts onto the seat bolts, and tighten them by hand. (Note: toilet seats are usually not included with the toilet.) ELECTRICO Instalar Abanicos (Electricidad Basica y Conexiones empezando con el panel principal de breakers) Reemplazo de Switches (Interruptores) y Tomacorrientes Instalando Lamparas Lighting fixtures impact the ambience of a room, not only because of the quality of light they produce, but because of their appearance. This is especially true of chandeliers because they are prominent room features. Although the term "chandelier" may bring to mind ornate lights with sparkling crystals, for practical purposes it includes any ceiling-mounted fixture that hangs from a chain or wire. This includes an incredibly wide range of hanging fixtures that complement any decor, from Early-American candle types to stained-glass Arts-and-Crafts designs. All ceiling-mounted fixtures are installed similarly, regardless of style. Your biggest issue is determining if the electric box that houses the wiring connections in the ceiling will support the weight of the chandelier you have chosen. If you replace a hanging fixture with a fixture about the same weight, the existing box is probably fine. If the new fixture is heavier than the old one, you may need to replace the ceiling box with a fan box rated to hold more weight. If you put in a new box, make sure it's rated for a heavy fixture. What You'll Need Skill Scale Varies Time Required Experienced: 3 hrs. Handy: 6 hrs. Novice: 8 hrs. Tools Screwdriver Ladder with support platform Wire stripper Materials Chandelier Wire nuts, electrician's tape Step One Assemble the Canopy and Hanging Hardware Set aside any components that can be installed after the fixture is hanging (globes, glass panels, lightbulbs, etc.). Follow the specific instructions provided with the fixture. Remember to slide any necessary parts over the wiring and hanging chain. Support the fixture close to the ceiling by screwing a platform to the top of a stepladder with a few drywall screws. This provides a good work surface and should put the chandelier close enough to the ceiling to allow you to do the wiring without having to hold the chandelier in midair. Having a second person on a second ladder may also work, but coordinating your movements can be difficult with a heavy fixture. Fixtures usually come with a new mounting strap - a strip of metal that screws into the junction box in the ceiling. You can often use the existing strap, but if not, unscrew the old strap, and screw the new strap in place. Step Two Connect the Wiring Check the supply wires for fraying or damage. If necessary, cut the wires and strip off about 3⁄4 inch of insulation. On older fixtures, like this one, the wires aren't color coded. Connect one fixture wire to the black supply wire and the other fixture wire to the white supply wire. Newer fixtures have a black and a white wire. Twist the bare end of the black supply wire together with the bare end of the black fixture wire, then twist on a wire nut. Repeat with the white wires. Carefully tuck the wires into the junction box. Put a bulb in the fixture and check that connections work before finishing. Step Three Hang the Fixture Thread the fixture's mounting stem into the mounting strap on the ceiling box. Although the fixture is now securely hanging from the ceiling, the box and mounting hardware are still visible. Slide the canopy up against the ceiling to cover the mounting hardware; tighten the locknut against the canopy. Lineas de Telefono? DÉCOR INTERIOR Colgar Cuadros y Cortineros (Uso de tacos y niveles) Pintura de Interiores Sponging on is the technique of applying different color paints to a uniform-color base coat. Sponging adds depth to a wall. The more colors sponged on over the base coat, the greater the depth. Glaze coats allow the base paint to show through and extend the drying time of the sponged-on color, giving you more time to work with the effect. A satin or semigloss base coat is applied with a brush, pad or roller. The glaze is applied over the base coat with a sea sponge. Practice, practice, practice. The only way to get comfortable with decorative techniques is to practice on sample boards until you've mastered the technique. The more you practice and experiment, the more color combinations you can try. In the beginning, however, limit yourself to one or two until you get the hang of it. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Tools Utility knife Roller tray - Scrubbing sponge† Bucket Rubber gloves 4-Foot stepladder Putty knife Dust mask - Paint stirrer† 9-Inch roller cage with extension handle - Sea sponge† Materials 12-inch baseboard masking Blue painter's masking tape Drop cloth TSP solution Crack filler or joint compound Primer 3/8-inch nap roller cover 220-grit sandpaper Clean cotton rags - Glazing liquid† - Acrylic latex paint(s)† † Available at retail stores. Step One Preparing the Base The base for this decorative painting technique is a smooth, freshly painted wall. There aren't any shortcuts worth taking when it comes to preparing a wall for painting. No paint will cover surface flaws, nor will it stick to a wall that is rusty or greasy. So repair and clean the wall first. Apply primer even if there is already a finish coat of paint on the wall. Primers are specifically designed to stick to the wall and provide the ideal base for a new coat of paint or wallpaper. Don't scrimp on taping the room. Painter's masking tape is formulated to leave no residue for up to a week. And it's fairly inexpensive when compared to the cost in time of cleaning up paint splatters. Step Two Clean and Prime the Wall If you don't prime the wall, wash it with a TSP solution. Rinse with fresh water to remove all traces of detergent. Step Three Apply the Base Coat Satin or semigloss paints allow a longer working time for the glaze than flat or eggshell. Allow the base coat to dry for 24 hours. Step Four Mix the Glaze in a ratio of 1 part paint and 4 parts glaze. Practice on test panels to determine the recipe. Step Five Begin the Application Before sponging the wall, prime the sponge by wetting it under the tap and squeezing out as much water as possible. This will allow the sponge to absorb a full load of glaze. Next, pour a small amount of mixed glaze onto a ceramic or plastic plate that you can place on a stepladder shelf or carry in your hand. Dip the sponge in the mixture, blot it and start dabbing. Be conservative when you start. You can return and sponge on more glaze later—even after the first application has dried. If you sponge on too much glaze in a spot, sponge over it with the base color. Step Six Add More Colors This technique offers a wonderful opportunity to use the color wheel in selecting color. Start, for instance, with a monochromatic scheme. Enhance that scheme by sponging on a different tint or shade of the base color. To add a gentle depth, sponge on an analogous color. To make a bolder statement, sponge on a complementary hue. To generate subtle excitement, sponge on colors that form a triad on the color wheel. If you add a color that you don't like, sponge over it with another color. That's the beauty of painting: A fix is just a brush (or a sponge) away. Step Seven Start Sponging in an upper corner. Prime the sponge with water and squeeze out the excess. Tear off a small piece of sponge to reach inside corners. Be fluid and rotate the sponge. Step Eight Sponge From the Top to the bottom of the wall in a strip as wide as your arm is long. Step Nine Swing Your Arm In a Radius not in a square pattern. Rotate the sponge occasionally. Step Ten Carry a Clean Rag in your other hand, and blot the sponge before starting each new section. Step Eleven Step Back and Look at the result after each section. If you need to add more glaze, this is the time to do it. Step Twelve If You See a Spot with too much glaze, go back after the glaze dries and sponge on more base. Step Thirteen After the Previous glaze color dries, sponge on subsequent color(s), if any. Instalando un Llavin Deadbolt locks provide extra security for entry doors. There are two types -- singlecylinder and double-cylinder. Single-cylinder types feature a finger latch that can be opened from the inside. Double-cylinder deadbolts must be opened with a key from either side of the door. Both types are available in a variety of styles and finishes to match existing hardware. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required You can install a deadbolt in less than one hour. Tools Screwdriver Electric drill with bits of correct diameters Hole saw Sharp 3/4-inch chisel - Chalk† Materials Deadbolt lock - Installation template (furnished with lock)† Step One Measure to find the lock location. Tape the cardboard template (supplied with the lockset) onto the door. Use a nail or awl to mark the centerpoints of the cylinder and the latch bolt on the door. Step Two Bore a cylinder hole with a hole saw and drill. To avoid splintering the door, drill through one side until the hole saw pilot (mandrel) just starts to come out the other side. Remove the hole saw and then complete the hole from the opposite side of the door. Step Three Use a spade bit and drill to bore the latch bolt hole from the edge of the door into the cylinder hole. Make sure to keep the drill perpendicular to the door edge while drilling. Step Four Mark the outline of the mortise with a pencil or a utility knife. Use the hardware as a marking template when drawing the outline for strike plate mortises and hinge mortises. Step Five Cut the outline of the mortise by holding a chisel with the bevel side in and tap the butt end lightly with a mallet or hammer until the cut is at the proper depth. Step Six Make a series of parallel depth cuts 1/4 inch apart across the mortise with the chisel held at a 45-degree angle. Drive the chisel with light mallet blows to the butt end of the chisel. Step Seven Pry out the waste chips by holding the chisel at a low angle with the bevel side toward the work surface. Drive the chisel using light hand pressure. Step Eight Insert the latch bolt into the edge hole. Insert the lock tailpiece and connecting screws through the latch bolt mechanism. Screw the cylinders together. Mark the edge of the latch with chalk and close the door. The chalk will mark the door jamb, indicating where to properly place the strike plate. Step Eight Insert the latch bolt into the edge hole. Insert the lock tailpiece and connecting screws through the latch bolt mechanism. Screw the cylinders together. Mark the edge of the latch with chalk and close the door. The chalk will mark the door jamb, indicating where to properly place the strike plate. Instalando Soportes en Paredes (Taladro, brocas y niveles) It's true – simple one-piece, 90-degree-bend shelf brackets are visually unobtrusive. For greatest strength, however, choose brackets with an additional diagonal support. In either case, it's best to attach the bracket's longer arm to the wall and use the shorter arm to support the shelf. For long shelves, attach a bracket at least every 48 inches. For heavy loads, increase the size of your brackets and decrease the spacing between them. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required You can complete this project in an hour or two - tops! Tools Stud finder Carpenter's level Drill Screwdriver Materials Shelf brackets Screws Step One Attach the brackets to wall studs whenever possible. Save time by using an electronic stud finder to locate the studs. For extremely heavy loads, attach a bracket to every stud along the entire span of shelving. Step Two To attach shelf brackets to masonry walls, use plastic concrete anchors and screws. Attach one shelf bracket every 24 inches every 16 inches for heavy loads. Step Three Level the shelf brackets with a carpenter's level. If necessary, hold the level on a straight 2x4 for shelf spans that are longer than the 3- or 4-foot length of the level. Instalando Ceramica Once your surface is prepared, you'll need to lay out where the tiles will go. For a goodlooking installation, layout lines must be square. Otherwise, you'll end up with oddshaped tiles at the walls. When you're doing the dry layout of the tiles, place spacers upright between them to maintain the right gap for the grout joints. What You'll Need Skill Scale Easy Time Required You can lay out ceramic tiles in a 5x7-foot bathroom in 30 minutes. Tools Tape measure Framing square Marking pencil Step One Establish a layout line by measuring opposite sides of the room and marking the center of each side. Snap a chalk line between the marks. Measure and mark the center of the chalk line. From this point, use a framing square to establish a second line perpendicular to the first. Snap a second layout line across the room. Step Two Check for squareness with a carpenter's triangle. Measure and mark one layout line 3 feet from the center point. Measure and mark the perpendicular layout line 4 feet from the centerpoint. Measure the distance between the marks. If the layout lines are perpendicular, the distance will be exactly 5 feet. Step Three Lay tiles and spacers along one line from the center to the wall. If the space at the wall is narrower than half a tile, move the other line back by half a tile. You'll end up with wider cuts at both walls. Step Four It's best to divide the floor into manageable boxes, roughly 2- by 3-feet square, for setting the tiles. The best way to determine the exact size of box that's right for your tiles is to lay them out and measure them. Begin by laying out an L in the center of the room. Use the chalk lines as a guide and separate the tiles with spacers. Step Five Measure both branches of the L from the center to determine the size of the boxes you will lay out on the floor. Add the width of one spacer to each measurement. Remove the tiles. Lay out a chalk-line grid, with each box the size of the sample you measured in Step 5. Instalando una Puerta Interna (PDF) Crear Divisiones Internas (PDF) Instalar Closet de Alambre (PDF) Instalar un Vanity (PDF) EXTERIOR Instalar un zip-line No todo tiene que ser trabajo! Incluimos un proyecto de diversion para su patio. Cerco de Madera #1 What You'll Need SKILL SCALE (Easy, Medium, Hard): Medium HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE? Installing an 80-foot run of post-and-rail fence should take about: - Experienced - 8 hrs. - Handy - 12 hrs. - Novice - 16 hrs. REQUIRED SKILLS: - Measuring - Cutting - Layout - Basic carpentry skills MATERIALS: 4×4 posts Pre-mixed concrete in bags - 1×6, 2×6, or precut tapered rails 10d (3") deck screws Roofing cement - Wire Masking tape TOOLS: Tape measure Pencil/marker - Mason’s line Hammer Line level 3 lb. sledgehammer Post hole digger - Shovel Drill, screwdriver bit Circular saw Wood chisel Rubber mallet Level Framing square Wheelbarrow Safety glasses Work gloves Shown at left: (A) top rail, (B) post, (C) bottom rail, (D) cross-rail. Begin building a basic post-and-rail fence by setting the posts in the ground at regular 6- to 8-foot intervals. Trim the posts to height and screw on the rails. Fasten the bottom rail 3 to 4 inches above ground level and the top rail so it’s flush with the top of the posts. Cut cross rails and fasten them so the joints fall in the center of each post. Step 1: Install the Rails Lay out the fence and set the posts into the ground. Mark the posts for bottom rails that are 3 to 4 inches above the ground and top rails flush with the top of the posts. Install top and bottom 1×6 rails long enough to span three posts. The joints should fall at the center of the posts so two joints never fall on the same post. Level each rail and nail in place with galvanized 10d (3") nails or screw it in place with 3-inch deck screws. Step 2: Install the Cross-Rails Tack cross rails to the posts and mark them for cutting with a framing square. Remove the cross rails, make the cuts with a circular saw, then fasten the cross rails to the posts with galvanized 10d (3 inch) nails or screw them in place with two 3-inch deck screws. Step 2: Install the Cross-Rails Tack cross rails to the posts and mark them for cutting with a framing square. Remove the cross rails, make the cuts with a circular saw, then fasten the cross rails to the posts with galvanized 10d (3 inch) nails or screw them in place with two 3-inch deck screws. The simplest wood fences are post-and-rail fences, of which there are three basic types distinguished by the shape and design of their posts. The fence and the way you install it depends on whether the posts are square, round, or premortised. Set square posts in the ground, trim them to height, and install rails. Before setting round posts into the ground, cut notches for the rails. Set and plumb mortised posts as you install the rails. Construir Cerco #2 You can nail almost anything to a standard post-and-rail skeleton. The most popular fence types are picket, alternate board, solid board, louver, and basket weave. Building any of these fences is a three step process: install the posts, install the rails, and screw on the fencing. Intervals of 4, 6, and 8 feet between posts are typical. Choose one (such as picket) and adjust the spacing of the fence boards so they are spaced evenly. Factor in the type of fence style, too, when you put up rails. The rails of some styles, such as louvered fencing, must be installed with the wide face up. Others such as the basket weave require the addition of a cap rail. Fences 48 inches or taller require a middle rail. Traditional pickets are 4 feet high. They are typically 1×3s with the space between them equal to the width of each picket. Rails to hold the pickets are installed at the top and bottom; taller pickets need the support of a middle rail. No matter what size or shape you install, space pickets at intervals less than 4 inches or greater than 6 inches to minimize the risk of children or pets getting stuck between them. Check local codes for restrictions on fence height. Install the fence at least 2 inches above the ground to prevent the boards from rotting. What You'll Need Skill Scale Medium Time Required Experienced: 8 hrs. Handy: 12 hrs. Novice: 16 hrs.. Tools 3/8-inch drill and screwdriver bit Tape measure Mason's line Line level Circular saw Saber saw Power miter saw Clamps Hammer Safety glasses Materials 1× fence boards, pressure-treated 1×2s, 2×2s, 2×4s, #8 2-inch and 21⁄2-inch deck screws Step One Lay out and cut the pickets. Many pickets are flattop, but you can also lay out your own custom shapes. For customized pickets, make a pattern, trace the shape onto the boards, and cut outside curves with a saber saw. Cut inside curves with a drill bit, if possible. (See inset.) To speed up the job, clamp a couple of boards together and cut them at the same time. Step Two Make a spacer. Make a spacer that is as wide as the space between pickets. Screw a 2×2 block to the top of the spacer so when you hang it from the rail, the top of the spacer is level with the top of the pickets. Screw a small torpedo level to the spacer to tell if the pickets are plumb. Step Three Attach the first picket. Butt the spacer against the post and butt a picket against the spacer. Use a level to make sure the picket is plumb, then screw the picket to the rails with #8 2-inch deck screws. Step Four Attach the remaining pickets. Butt the spacer against the first picket, position the next picket against it, and screw the picket to the rails. Continue installing pickets the same way, checking for plumb as you go and making any necessary adjustments. Ensamblar un Swing You've completed all of the laying out and cutting. Now comes the payoff, when you get to see your porch swing actually take shape. What You'll Need Skill Scale Medium Time Required Make this a two-weekend project-one to cut the parts and another to do your final assembly and finishing. Tools Tape measure Combination square Table saw and dado head Saber saw Router and 1/4-inch roundover bit 3/8-inch drill and bits 1-inch wood chisel Hand screws C-clamps Screwdriver Materials Lumber No. 8 1-, 1 1/4-, and 2 1/2-inch stainless-steel deck screws 1/2-inch dowels Wood plugs Eyebolts Water-resistant glue Masking tape Sandpaper Chain Step One Before attaching the seat slats, build three spacers to keep the slats 3/8 inch apart. Cut a 1x2 into three 3-inch-long pieces. Nail the pieces onto 3-inch lengths of 3/8inch stock to form a T. Step Two Insert the cross support into the dadoes cut in the assembled seat supports. At each connecting point, drill a 3/8-inch hole 3/8 inch deep with a combination countersink bit. Screw the cross support in place with No. 8, 2 1/2-inch stainless-steel deck screws. We recommend stainlesssteel deck screws because they resist rust and won't stain the wood. Step Three Screw the armrest supports to the cross support so that the bevel of each arm support slopes toward the back. Drill a 3/8inch hole 3/8 inch deep with a combination countersink bit from the inside of the seat assembly into the side of each arm support. Screw the parts together. Step Four To make attaching the slats easier, clamp the seat assembly to a work table. Hold the back of the assembly in place with wood pads and hand screws. Clamp the front of the assembly between two wooden blocks that are clamped to a 1x4 as shown. Step Five Rest the first seat slat on the top edge of the 1x4, flush with the ends of the seat assemblies. Drill 3/8-inch pilot holes into the supports, and drive in No. 8, 1-inch deck screws. Place the next slat in position using the spacers you made in Step 1. Screw the slats to the supports one after the other until they are all installed. Step Six Position each armrest on its armrest support, center the screw holes, and clamp the back end of the armrest to the back support. Adjust the armrests as necessary to sit flat on the bevel of the armrest supports. Drill 7/64-inch pilot holes through the arm holes into the arm supports. Mark the eyebolt position on the back of each support with an awl. Step Seven Drill a 5/16-inch hole at each of the marked points. Fasten the armrests to the supports with No. 8, 2 1/2-inch deck screws. Install a 5/16x5-inch eyebolt with a nut and washer at each end of the armrests, and tighten them with an openend wrench. Step Eight Install an eyebolt with a washer and nut at each end of the cross support. Tighten them with a wrench. Step Nine Put water-resistant glue into each screw hole, and insert 3/8-inch wood plugs. Sand the plugs flush when the glue has cured. Apply the exterior finish of your choice. Attach chain to the eyebolts, and hang the swing. Construyendo un Deck Decks are a perfect area for outdoor entertaining and outdoor relaxing. The style of deck you choose to build determines how you use your deck, as well as how you build it. Although similar in appearance, different decks can require different construction techniques. Our Installation Services experts built this Ground-Level deck and documented the steps taken in order to help you build your own outdoor living area. You will see how the deck was assembled, why material choices were made, and the approximate time it took to do the work. Use this example to help you plan your own deck. What You'll Need Skill Scale Hard Time Required Building a ground-level deck should take about 16-24 hours Step One Batterboards and mason's string lines were used to lay out footing locations for a deck that is approximately 8 feet wide and 10 feet long. Six holes for 8-inch-diameter footings were dug with a posthole digger. Each hole is 12 inches deep. There is no frost line to deal with since this is a freestanding deck. Tube forms were used to level the footings about 1 inch above ground level. Approximate time for a novice (with a helper) to lay out footing locations, dig holes and level tube forms for this deck: 57 hours. Step Two Six 60-pound bags of ready-mix concrete were mixed in a wheelbarrow. Post anchors for 4x4 posts were attached to the footings after the concrete cured for 48 hours. The anchors were aligned with a long straight board. Diagonal measurements were checked to square the anchor positions. Approximate time (not including curing time): 3-4 hours. Step Three Beams were made from double 2x6s. They were attached in the post anchors. A 1/2inch-thick pressure-treated shim was installed between the beam and one side of the anchor at each footing. The anchor is 3 1/2 inches wide and the beam is 3 inches thick. Approximate time: 2-3 hours. Step Four Beam alignment was checked and adjusted as necessary to make certain beams were square. Approximate time: 1/2-3/4 hour. Step Five 2x6 rim joists were attached to the ends of the beams. Angle brackets were installed to provide additional support for the corner joints. Approximate time: 1-1 1/2 hours. Step Six Inner 2x6 joists were attached to the beam faces with joist hangers. Approximate time: 3-5 hours. Step Seven 2x6 decking was installed perpendicular to the joists. Decking was fastened with deck screws. Ends of boards hang over edge of deck and will be trimmed to length after installation. Approximate time: 1 1/2-2 hours. Step Eight A chalk line was snapped to mark a straight cutting line. Decking was trimmed to length with a circular saw. Approximate time: 1/4-1/2 hour. Total approximate time for this groundlevel deck: 16-24 hours. Un Deck Elevado Decks are a perfect area for outdoor entertaining and outdoor relaxing. The style of deck you choose to build determines how you use your deck, as well as how you build it. Although similar in appearance, different decks can require different construction techniques. Our Installation Services Associates built this Single-Level Raised deck and documented the steps taken in order to help you build your own outdoor living area. What You'll Need Skill Scale Hard Time Required Building a single-level raised deck should take about 88-101 hours. Step One Batterboards and mason's string lines were used here to lay out footing locations for a deck that is 24 feet long and 14 feet wide. A 2x12 ledger board was first attached to the house to establish the deck position. The deck structure, including number of footings, was designed to be enclosed as a four-season porch in the near future. Approximate time for a novice (with a helper) to lay out footing locations for this deck: 12-14 hours. Time includes removing siding and attaching the ledger. Step Two Holes for seven 12-inch-diameter footings were dug. A standard single-level raised deck needs only need four footings, parallel to the house. The extra footings were necessary on this deck to handle the additional weight of the roof and future remodeling project structures. Holes were dug 48 inches deep to get below the local frost line. The bottom of the center footing in the row parallel to the house was flared to 24 inches. The remaining footings were flared to 18 inches. Footings were dug with a power auger. Forty-four 60-pound bags of ready-mix concrete were mixed in a portable power mixer. Post anchors for 6x6 posts were installed and aligned after the concrete cured for 48 hours. Approximate time (not including curing time): 14-16 hours. Step Three 6x6 posts were plumbed and temporarily braced in place. Post tops were trimmed to the proper height after posts were positioned. Trimming lines level with the bottom of the ledger were established using a water level. The beam supported by the posts will have joists attached to its inner face. Approximate time: 6-7 hours. Step Four A 24-foot-long beam made of doubled 2x12s was built in place on top of the row of posts parallel to the house. Adjustable post caps attach the beam to the tops of the posts. This beam serves as the header joist because joists will be attached to its inner face. The two rim joists are also beams on this deck because of the future remodeling. They will help carry the weight of the roof. The extra beams are 14 feet long and were also built in place. The remaining length of visible ledger will support the landing at the top end of the stairs. The end of the adjacent 14-foot beam is attached to the ledger with a double joist hanger. Approximate time: 7-8 hours. Step Five 14-foot-long 2x12 joists were installed. The large size of the framing on this deck accommodates the future remodeling. Joist hangers attach joists to the ledger and beam header joist. Blocking pieces were fastened between joists in the middle of the span to prevent twisting of the joists. Most of the temporary bracing was removed after joists were installed. Approximate time: 8-9 hours. Step Six 5/4x6 decking was attached perpendicular to the joists and fastened with deck screws. No additional blocking was necessary because seams between boards were centered over joists. The seams were staggered between adjacent rows of decking for best appearance. Approximate time: 7-8 hours. Step Seven Footings for stair landings and pad were located after the main deck platform was built. Locating stair footings is more accurate when done relative to an existing deck structure. One 12-inch-diameter footing was made for a 6x6 post that will support the upper landing. Four 8-inchdiameter footings were made for 4x4 posts that will support a small transition landing in the stair run. The stair run makes a 90-degree turn at the landing to end on the 4x4-foot pad. The pad is 4 inches thick. Thirty-two 60-pound bags of concrete were mixed in a portable power mixer. Approximate time (including making a form for the pad): 6-7 hours. Step Eight Post anchors were attached to the footings. Posts were plumbed and the framing for the landings installed. Decking was attached to the joists. Note: The landing could be replaced by another deck level on a multilevel deck if desired. Calculations for the stair runs were checked, and the stringers for the stairs were made. The upper and lower stair runs were built in place. Approximate time: 16-18 hours. Step Nine Railing post locations were calculated and the railing posts installed. Posts were notched and attached to the outside of the perimeter framing and stringers. The two posts at the bottom end of the upper stair run are longer than other posts because they also serve as posts for adjoining railings. This saved the time and money of installing two additional posts. Approximate time: 12-14 hours. Total approximate time for this deck: 88101 hours. Pintura de Exterior There are all different kinds of siding you might encounter when it comes time to painting the outside of your house. You could have cedar, plywood, hardboard, stucco or masonry. Sometimes, you might have a combination. In general, you should use a power sprayer or a roller with a heavy nap for concrete, stucco and brick. Use a brush, a roller with a medium nap, or a power sprayer for any other materials. What You'll Need Skill Scale Medium Time Required If you work with a partner, it should take about four days to paint a house. Tools Paintbrush Trim brush Foam pad Extension ladder Stepladder Edge roller Materials Exterior house paint Exterior trim paint Step One First, check to make sure there's no rain in the weather forecast. You'll need to apply primer to any bare siding. For best results, allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer's recommendation. A sprayer or roller will speed up the process. Step Two Masonry surfaces always should be primed, especially if water stains are present or if glossy paint is to be topcoated. Cedar and redwood contain resins that bleed through water-based paints, so use an oil-based primer on bare wood. Step Three Paint the roof trim and soffits before the walls if they will be different colors. This will keep the trim paint from dripping onto the newly painted walls. Step Four Paint the inside corners and around the trim. A corner roller or trim brush is a great help when cutting in these areas. Step Five On clapboard or shingle siding, paint the bottom edges of the siding before painting the face. That way, you'll make sure you don't miss any spots. A trim roller works great for this job. Step Six Do the walls with a roller or a brush, starting at the top. If you're up on a ladder, work carefully and don't overextend your arm - it could throw you off balance. Try to finish strokes directly in front of you so you can make sure there's no drips. Paint one defined "block" at a time. Step Seven Start each stroke by feathering the brush or roller. Feathering means placing the surface of the brush or roller against the siding gradually, instead of abruptly. This eliminates a definite start line and makes it easier to blend the next block of strokes into the present block. Step Eight Blend the strokes together by working quickly. It's important to blend the new stroke into the completed stroke while the paint is still wet so you can avoid lap marks. Never stop in the middle of a section. Paint to the corner of the house so the paint color is consistent. Step Nine Move the ladder so you can just reach the completed block of siding. To eliminate lap marks, rewet the feathered edges of the previously painted block with your brush or roller just before you start each stroke. Repeat the process until the top area is completed, then move on to the lower sections. AHORROS DE ENERGIA Y AGUA EN EL HOGAR Calentador Solar de Agua Para ahorro de Energia el mejor equipo es un calentador solar. La razon es que el aparato que mas energia consume en una casa de habitacion es el calentador de agua. Aun si no cuentan con un calentador de agua la instalacion de uno es buena ya que el agua caliente para lavar platos sirve para ahorrar agua ademas de jabon y tiempo. Ahorro de Agua Visite la pagina www.gea-hn.com para tips de como ahorrar agua en el hogar. Todos los tips asumen un cambio de actitud por parte del usuario pero resultan en ahorros asi como tambien higiene en su hogar. Get Water Wise Conserving water at home will take a load off the environment as well as your pocketbook. From small changes that take minimum effort, to bigger changes that can yield dramatic water savings, we'll show you how to make a difference. Imagine a huge room filled with 1,600 cups of water. That's how much water the average American uses each day, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). In recent years, water conservation has become a major priority in states facing severe water shortages, but experts agree it's only a matter of time before the problem is felt across the country. To view up-to-date drought conditions across the country, click here. Every Drop Counts Whether or not you live in an area that's currently dealing with water shortages, there are a number of inexpensive and easy-to-install water-saving fixtures that will result in significant water conservation. It might not feel like you're making a much of a difference, but consider this: Fixing a leaky toilet can save about 200 gallons of water each day. In fact, a visit to a Certified Professional at your local The Home Depot store can yield a number of other water-saving solutions. Water-Saving Solutions A quick walk around your home can reveal a number of other simple water-saving opportunities. For just a few dollars, an aerator installed on a kitchen or bathroom faucet can help cut water consumption while maintaining a smooth, high-pressure flow. A high-efficiency showerhead costs a little more, but works on the same premise. High-efficiency toilets use 20% less water than 1.6 GPF toilets and 60% less than 3.5 GPF toilets. A water recirculating pump or a tankless water heater will save several thousands of gallons of water waste per year, but the investment is higher. By the same token, switching to an ENERGY STAR® qualified washing machine can save 7,000 gallons of water a year. Watering Wisely Outdoors There's no reason for water-saving measures to stop at the front door, either. Sprinkler timers, rain switches and drip irrigation systems are all fantastic ways to keep your garden looking lush without draining your wallet. When it comes to planting time in the spring, consider drought-tolerant grasses, ground covers, shrubs and trees. Adding a layer of mulch to your garden will also help retain moisture so you won't have to water as often. No More Flushing Money Down the Drain It goes without saying that implementing water-wise changes at home will have a positive impact on water supplies, but you'll also notice a difference on your utility bills, too. According to the EPA, the average household spends as much as $500 per year on its water and sewer bill. By making some of the simple water-saving changes mentioned above, you could save about $170 per year. And, if all US households installed water-efficient appliances, the country would save more than 3 trillion gallons of water and more than $18 billion dollars per year. So whether you plan to tackle a few small drips, or overhaul all of your household plumbing system, remember that every little bit counts toward preserving water supplies for tomorrow. In the meantime, various municipalities offer rebates when you purchase water conservation products. Check with your water municipality to see if you qualify. Instalar un Abanico (pdf) Instalar una Puerta (pdf) Instalar Divisiones (pdf) Reemplazar Visagras (pdf) Instalar Closet de Alambre (pdf) Instalar un Vanity o Gabinete (pdf)